Alligators & Birds: Everglades I

When we first considered a trip to Florida, it was the thought of seeing the Everglades that we found most compelling.  Little did we know that we'd fall in love with Florida in toto, but we are not disappointed by the beauty of these low water-and-grassways. The Everglades' landscape is mysterious, and surprisingly changeable.  At its highest, the land here is no more than eight feet above sea level, and even the slightest shift in elevation brings definite changes in habitat.

Campsites here at the National Park are rugged — no hookups, so we are "boondocking," that is, providing our own water (we filled our tanks at the last campsite), and the energy our Tin Hut's 12-volt system can manage (lights, our small fridge, the water pump, and heat, which isn't needed here, given that we sleep with all the windows open!). Surprisingly, the system powers my computer, altho' there's no Internet connection here. But we're delighted to be able to watch DVD's some evenings on the computer screen. Every once in awhile, Dave takes an hour or so to pump up the Airstream's voltage with a small, quiet generator. Poor us, camping without all the amenities. But we're resolved to carry on.

There are alligators in the Everglades. A LOT of them. Bizarre enough to see them slithering through water, and downright hair-raising to step out of one's car and realize one is lounging about 8 feet away, just beside a picnic table!

They look menacingly prehistoric, with their spiky tails, webbed feet, and jagged protruding lower teeth.  They lounge about a lot, but then creepily get onto their feet and move along, all the people in the area, of course, giving them a wide berth.  We've been told to stay at least 15 feet away from them at all times, as they can apparently move much more quickly than one would expect.

We've also seen crocodiles here, not nearly as numerous as the 'gators, and they are different, with narrower snouts, and a grayer color.   This is the only place in the world where crocs and alligators co-exist.

The birds here are plentiful and beautiful.  My favorites are the lovely roseate spoonbills — when these fly, they create a big sweep of pink as the sun hits their wings — gorgeous.

It was raining this first day we hiked in the park (you can see the rain in some of the photographs), but that didn't stop us from enjoying sights. And it didn't seem to disturb the wildlife a bit. We saw wood storks, egrets, herons, ospreys, and many other varieties, including the clownish grackles who swept down to gather the potato chips the wind had taken while we were eating at our picnic table.

We got a kick out of the Park's anhingas, who don't seem a bit perturbed by the presence of alligators, or humans, for that matter. They charmed us by sitting for long stretches with their wings wide open, gently fanning them back and forth to dry. They allowed us to get very close as they sat in these wing-stretched postures. The anhingas swim underwater to fish. When they catch one, they surface and flip the fish into the air — and down their throat.

Also surprising and funny is the behavior of some of the fish here, as they "flip" themselves repeatedly out of the water.  As one looks out over a pond, or even the Florida bay, there are constant fish acrobatics going on.  I asked a ranger if they were jumping for insects, and he said yes, and also that "fish just like frolicking."  

There are Florida panthers in the Park, but my understanding is that they are rarely seen.  They are near extinction, with fewer than ten in the area.  It's very strange to be driving down the road, and see "Panther Crossing" signs!

There are also rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, and other poisonous snakes, which we hope not to encounter.

The paths here are well-kept and clear, often providing high boardwalks to protect one's legs from soggy marshes, and one's toesies from 'gators.

There is real diversity of vegetation here, too. The impressive Gumbo Limbo tree has beautiful red bark, and we've learned that its resin provides an antidote for poisonwood rashes.

 

There are also slash pines, a subtropical variety, and the largest remaining stand of them in Florida.

Sawgrass fills the marshes, and on close inspection, one sees how it got its name — the fronds have tiny saw-blade edges, which are very strong and sharp. There are other vegetative features here that we'll explore more closely in tomorrow's hikes.

Sunset brought clearing skies, and for now, we are deservedly sleepy after a big hiking day.  To bed!  With the windows open.

Note: Click any photograph in this blog, and it will show you an enlarged version of itself in a new window.

Comments

[jenny]

Ahhhh bingo Jax and Dav la ally gay tor. I have set him as my background. Mr. in the rain submerged. By God his eyes remind me of dog's.
Goodness what a plethora of wildlife. Birds birds birds ! Dave you are national geographic caliber. That bird catching fish, wow. They all bring to mind just amazing grace. I am humbled well.
Thank you for posting this stuff, being my friends I tend to come and see how you are and for my effort get served some good reminders of how glorious life is.
I like to think whether I were a beggar or a king you would keep me connected to reality.
Blessings blessings to you my traveling minstreling bards.

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